A Conversation with Dave Hightower

Dave, thank you for taking the time to speak with me. You began the Hightower Report back in 1990. What are biggest changes that you have seen in the markets since then?

 When I started the company, China was relatively unimportant in the world grain markets. It is now the most important factor in terms of price and flows.

Back in 1990, the markets were still very US-focused, and still driven principally by the fundamentals of each particular commodity. Since then the markets have become global and have lost much of that focus on the US.

Globalization has also meant that markets now often move together, in unison. Ethanol has played a role in this: corn and beans are now energy commodities; there is a good correlation between the prices of crude oil, beans and corn.

Traders don’t always pay enough attention to outside markets. The price of oil is a major factor, but you also have to look at currencies and the stock market – are we, for example, going into deflation?

All this means that you can’t just look at the supply and demand of, say, beans, in isolation. You have to take into account a lot of other factors. So that has been the biggest change.

Are the fundamentals still important?

Very much so. The advent of the hedge funds has increased short-term volatility, but in the medium- to long-term, market price will always go to its fundamental value.

What are the main issues now in the grain markets?

We are coming out of a period of over-supply and going into a period of tighter supply. The trade had assumed that we would have multi-year surpluses, but we have slowly transitioned into lower stocks. In the corn market we have seen China liquidate huge strategic stocks – corn that was really old. They are now in a phase of rebuilding their stocks, and we are expecting them to hold bigger stocks than in the past, largely to protect themselves from future supply shocks, for example from a pandemic.

China has already purchased 71 percent of what they promised to buy under the first phase of their US trade deal. They will probably complete what they promised by the end of the year, but they may buy more depending on how much they want to rebuild their strategic stocks.

We are seeing China buying a lot of everything at the moment: crude; natural gas; copper; zinc etc. China’s GDP may grow 5.5 percent this year – that’s relatively slow compared to the past – but their economy is switching focus from exports to domestic consumption. That means that they will buy differently than in the past.

China is not going to buy agricultural commodities because of US pressure; China is going to buy or not buy either because they need it or because the price is attractive to them. In any case, it is not what China buys from the US that is important, it is what China buys globally.

US farmers have received record subsidies this year. Will that continue?

It will be a question of priorities. With the pandemic, there are now a lot of politically more important groups that are lobbying for financial help. The pandemic has increased the need for government spending and reprioritized where it is going. Unless crop prices fall so low that we start to see farm bankruptcies, I think that there will be less subsidies for farmers next year.

Remember that US farmers have had difficulty in promoting ethanol in the face of the oil lobby; the farmers have lost some of their political clout.

What will you be focusing on in your presentation at the Geneva Grain Conference?

I will be looking at the tail end of the Southern Hemisphere crops and then set the scene for the next cycle in the Northern Hemisphere. I will be concentrating on the fundamental S&D.

I will be very specific on the price outlook – where I believe prices will be going over the next six months to a year – and on the timing of future moves.

Thank you, Dave for your time and good luck with your presentation.

 © Commodity Conversations ®

Commodity Conversations Weekly Press Summary

Extreme and unpredictable weather conditions across the world, combined with supply chain disruptions and stockpiling caused by the coronavirus, are pushing up the price of many essential crops. The US, Russia and parts of the EU are facing extremely dry weather, while Vietnam, Malaysia and Indonesia have seen crops destroyed by storms and floods. The situation is even more complex when you factor in the sharp drop in the commercial flights which usually collect weather data. Meteorologists warn that they are struggling to make weather forecasts as a result. 

At the same time, China is maintaining its buying spree. The country is expected to issue additional corn import quotas to replenish reserves and meet feed demand for the growing hog population, according to sources who said COFCO was already benefiting from an additional quota. The surge in Chinese demand is also helping other trade houses like the US-based Scoular. The 128-year-old group has reported a spike in sorghum shipments since the Phase One trade deal was signed in February. And ADM sold the first shipment of US rice to China. The California-grown rice was unloaded in China this week and marks the culmination of a decade of regulatory and political work.

The food sector is in a much better place to deal with further coronavirus waves as it has set up systems to shift the food usually delivered to restaurants and caterers to retail stores. Besides, the head of ADM highlighted that being a global company provided clear advantages to deal with a worldwide pandemic. Highlighting ADM’s 118-year history, he mentioned: “That’s what our company does: it adjusts constantly”. Health experts are not so confident about the meat packing sector in the US, however, despite claims by JBS and Perdue Farms that they are prepared for further outbreaks. The major risk factor remains the speed of processing lines, while most plants are still running at the high rates authorised by an emergency decree.

While the first wave of stockpiling was categorised by a focus on comfort food and trusted brands, Nestle noted that consumers were now focusing on healthier purchases. The firm’s health-science unit reported better than expected sales thanks to a growth in demand for vitamins, minerals and supplements. Unilever reported a similar trend and has been working on making some of its products healthier. To be sure, people are still buying comfort food and Unilever revealed that sales of at-home ice cream had fully offset the drop in out-of-home sales.​

Not to be outdone, ADM’s health department said it would increase the production of probiotics five-fold thanks in part to the expansion of a factory in Valencia, Spain. Bayer, meanwhile, signed a USD 4 billion deal to buy Asklepios BioPharmaceutical. The gene therapy firm is looking to use a harmless virus to deliver “genetic repair kits”. 

Further out in the field of future food science, the debate is growing on whether lab-grown meat will ever be able to compete with traditional meat or its more direct rival, plant-based meat. Sceptics highlight that cost and perception will remain the main challenges for widespread adoption. Nonetheless, some firms are reportedly making lab-grown beef patties for just EUR 9, compared to the EUR 250,000 it took for the first experiment in 2013. The sharp drop in cost is similar, or even faster, than the scaling of the Internet and other digital technologies. One analysis suggested that Moore’s Law could be a good way to predict the future of the sector. 

The head of Impossible Foods certainly has a strong opinion on the subject as he argued that cultured meat is “never going to be a thing. I’d put any amount of money on that.” The cost involved makes the technology much more suited for therapeutic use, he added. Nonetheless, some 80 start-ups are currently studying lab-grown meat and one hopes to launch seafood products made from fish cells in mid-2021. Another group, Israeli-based Aleph Farm, is focusing on using its cell-based 3D bioprinting meat platform in space. After a successful test on the International Space Station, the firm is now partnering with space agencies to develop a solution suitable for Mars. 

Some promising progress is also being made to make traditional meat production more sustainable. Aemetis announced that it had started producing biogas from the methane collected at two dairy operations. The renewable natural gas is then processed into fuel ethanol at a Keyes, California, plant. The group hopes to expand the project to 17 dairies next year.

Amid all this talk of potential food disruptions, Oreo fans can rest easy as Mondelez built a vault to protect the cookie from disasters, including an asteroid that is expected to pass close to the Earth in November. Called the Global Oreo Vault, the facility is built right next to the Global Seed Vault in Svalbard, Norway. 

This summary was produced by ECRUU

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A Conversation with Chris von Zastrow

 

(Chris recently retired from Starbucks where he was coffee sustainability director. All views are his own and not necessarily those of Starbucks.)

Good morning Chris. Thank you for taking the time to chat. I think you grew up on a coffee farm. Can you tell me a little about that?

My father managed coffee farms in Kenya and Tanzania before buying his own farm on the slopes of Kilimanjaro in Tanganyika (Tanzania) in 1959. I was born in Kenya in 1953, and apart from my time in boarding schools in Tanzania, Ethiopia and England, the farm was my home until I was 19 years old.

We had 150 acres (60 hectares), but soils were poor and the land rocky. Mechanization wasn’t possible, and all the work was done manually. Operating costs were horrendous. We grew arabica coffee under rather heavy Gravilea robusta shade canopy, as was the custom at the time. The coffee was sold through the local auction system. There were very few direct sales back then.

My parents’ farm was nationalised in October 1973.

What are the main environmental challenges that now face coffee production?

Climate change.  Areas that were good for coffee 20-30 years ago are now becoming marginal. Coffee production is tending to move higher up mountains, especially smallholder production in Central America, but also in Colombia, Peru and Ecuador. This leads to deforestation – in many cases deforestation of primary forests, which in turn leads to changes in weather patterns, landslides, long-term soil infertility, etc.

Water is another challenge. Washed coffee uses a lot of water. I don’t believe that we should necessarily be retaining the washed coffee method; it can have quite a negative impact on the environment and water quality. Although washed coffees certainly tend to be much better in the cup, I do believe there are alternative methods such as pulped naturals or de-mucilaging machines that use much less water.

What are the main issues on the social side?

I would say child labour, and that goes back to general economic issues and poverty levels in producing communities. Low coffee prices haven’t helped.  The kids are working on the farms due to the high poverty levels in coffee communities; adult workers are unable to achieve sufficient income levels to feed and educate their families. They have no choice but to send their children into the fields to make up the deficit.

If you stop the kids from working, you are taking food away from desperately poor families. This is a problem that many coffee producing countries are confronted with – and not just in Africa. If consumers want to enjoy a product, then a living-wage price needs to be paid that can help alleviate the problems. Consumers can’t just mandate that there is no child labour without providing and supporting alternatives. The underlying issues need to be tackled.

That brings us on to economic sustainability…

Prior to the lapsing of the International Coffee Agreement (ICA) in 1989, the minimum trading reference price the ICA sought to protect through the quota system was $1.15 per pound; from a relative purchasing power perspective, that would be the equivalent today of around $2.45. The C market price currently is $1.10 – $1.20 per pound. That said, differentials have improved, but nowhere near enough to make up the difference.

In spite of all the aid, social and economic programmes that have over the years been implemented in producing countries by industry and governments, coffee farmers are half as well off today as they were 30 years ago.

Admittedly, they have found ways of cutting their costs, such as higher use of relatively cheaper pesticides, herbicides, etc. to increase production – not healthy for humans, wildlife biodiversity or the environment.

The wealth in the coffee supply chain now sits with the trade houses, the roasters, and the coffee shops. It’s not at the farmer level.

What coffee do you drink now?

Starbucks coffee of course! I make it in a French press or in a stove-top espresso. I enjoy House Blend, and particularly the single origin coffees from Guatemala, Ethiopia and Colombia.

Thank you, Chris for your time and input!

 © Commodity Conversations ®

This is an extract of an interview from my upcoming book Crop to Cup – Conversations over Coffee to be published later this year.

Commodity Conversations Weekly Press Summary

The EU’s agriculture ministers agreed this week that 20% of the new Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) budget which will kick in 2023 should be used for environmentally friendly farming. However, the proposal still has to be voted by Parliament and environmentalists complained that the amount was much too low and translated into massive ongoing subsidies for traditional agriculture. The EU Parliament is also due to vote on a bill proposing that terms such as “sausages” and “burgers” could only be used for products containing meat, even when used with words such as “style” and “like.” An analysis by the BBC said this would take the 3-year old ban on terms like “soya milk” and “vegan cheese” one step further. 

The WWF, meanwhile, is advocating moving away from the meat vs plant debate towards a “Planet-based diet.” The idea is to focus on consuming foods that are produced locally and sustainably while providing us with our nutritional needs. The organisation points out that biodiversity loss is caused by different factors depending on the geography and that advocating for a vegan diet doesn’t make sense everywhere in the world. To help us make the right choices, the WWF designed a Planet-Based Diets Impact and Action Calculator. 

Going local is not on top of governments’ priorities right now, as they focus on ensuring they have sufficient food supply. An analyst explained that consumers and supermarkets have switched from “just-in-time” inventory management to “just-in-case”  in the anticipation of supply disruptions due to the coronavirus. The Bloomberg Agriculture Subindex rallied 20% since June as countries such as China, but also in the Middle East and Africa, stepped up purchases. The additional demand is helping farmers, notably in the US where producers have also benefited from higher buying from China under the Phase One trade deal. Another element contributing to the income of US farmers is the record high USD 51 billion in federal aid they will have received this year, an analysis by Reuters showed. The aid should amount to about a third of farm income in 2020, which will overall be higher than in 2019. 

Danone, which lost a quarter of its market value in 2020, could divest from businesses worth as much as EUR 500 million (USD 592 million) in revenue, as well as downsize some units by up to a third, the CEO said. Bloomberg Intelligence suggested that the company didn’t have much of a choice but to shed assets, arguing that Danone was “way behind the curve.” He added that this would not be enough and the group may need to sell more businesses, including some of its water brands. 

This is exactly what Nestle is doing. Sources say that the group is looking for bids for its North American water brands which have been losing market share. Analysts estimate that the brands could be sold for anywhere between USD 3-5 billion. On the other hand hand, the CEO said he is planning to keep premium brands like Perrier and San Pellegrino. 

The Coca-Cola Company said the coronavirus had contributed to accelerating its portfolio review. It announced it would stop producing a number of drinks, such as Coca-Cola Life, to free resources for higher-margin products. The virus also fast-tracked changes that were taking place in the group’s marketing strategy – an official explained that they were now focusing on more “meaningful” advertising

The CEO of Unilever warned, meanwhile, that more and more companies were making sustainability commitments to appeal to consumers without any plans to stick to them, also known as “woke-washing.” Ironically, he made the comment just as Greenpeace accused Unilever of “greenwashing.” The NGO conceded that the group has been vocal about becoming more sustainable but argued it needed to do much more. 

A study looking at several carnivore species in the US Midwest found that predators were getting close to half of their food from humans, by eating through garbage, foraging fields and even eating pets. One of the scientists told Wired that the presence of corn in their systems revealed the source of their food, explaining that “Human foods look like corn, because we give corn to everything.” 

Going back to the subject of eating locally, the coronavirus-led surge in gardening has caused a shortage of Mason jars in the US. Many people have used the time at home to plant food stuff which they have been canning for preservation, causing the shortage in canning containers. A jar merchant called it “Sourdough 2.0.”

This summary was produced by ECRUU

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Coffee and Health

Caffeine was first chemically isolated in a German laboratory in 1819. It is an alkaloid, as is cocaine, that occurs naturally in some 60 tropical plant species, of which cocoa beans, tea leaves and coffee beans are the most well-known.

When coffee leaves die and fall to the ground, they contaminate the soil with caffeine, which makes it difficult for other plants to germinate; it acts as a natural herbicide. But coffee plants mainly use caffeine as an insecticide. It can be toxic to insects and they tend to avoid it. But coffee plants also lace their nectar with low doses of caffeine. When insects feed on the nectar, they get a buzz that makes them more likely to revisit the flower and spread its pollen.

It’s not just bees that get their buzz from caffeine. In his book All About Coffee, William Ukers writes that the French writer Balzac was a big fan, drinking a reported (but scarcely credible) 50 cups of coffee per day. In his Treatise on Modern Stimulants, Balzac describes the effect that caffeine had on him:

‘This coffee falls into your stomach, and straight away there is a general commotion. Ideas begin to move like the battalions of the Grand Army on the battlefield, and the battle takes place. Things remembered arrive at full gallop, ensign to the wind. The light cavalry of comparisons deliver a magnificent deploying charge, the artillery of logic hurry up with their train and ammunition, the shafts of wit start up like sharpshooters. Similes arise, the paper is covered with ink; for the struggle commences and is included with torrents of black water, just as a battle with powder.’

The author Mathew Walker is less of a fan.  In his book Why We Sleep: The New Science of Sleep and Dreams, he describes caffeine as ‘the most widely used (and abused) psychoactive stimulant in the world…It represents one of the longest and largest unsupervised drug studies ever conducted on the human race, perhaps rivalled only by alcohol, and it continues to this day.’

When caffeine hits your brain, it adheres to your brain’s adenosine receptors. Adenosine is what helps us feel sleepy. When caffeine binds to your adenosine receptors, it inactivates them and stops you from feeling tired. Caffeine tricks us into feeling alert and awake despite the high levels of adenosine that would otherwise make us sleepy.

Caffeine is removed from our system by an enzyme in our liver that gradually degrades it over time. Caffeine has an average half-life of five to seven hours: after five to seven hours, about 50 percent of the caffeine you have drunk is still circulating in the body. So, if you enjoy an espresso at 10pm after dinner, as I used to do when I was younger, then half of the caffeine will still be in your brain at 3am.

Some people have a more efficient version of this enzyme than others, allowing them to clear the caffeine quicker. Others have a slower, less efficient version. Unfortunately, aging affects the enzyme’s efficiency: the older we get, the longer it takes to clear our brains of caffeine.

Just because the caffeine is stopping our brain from processing the adenosine, it doesn’t mean the brain stops producing it. When the caffeine inevitably wears off, you’re left with an adenosine build-up which makes you feel even more tired – what is commonly known as a ‘caffeine crash.’

The good news is that roasted coffee does not just contain caffeine; it is full of biologically active compounds like chlorogenic acid, kahweol, and N-methylpyridinium, all of which have been found to reduce inflammation, serve as potential anticancer mechanisms, and improve insulin sensitivity.

In 2017, a review on coffee consumption and human health in the British Medical Journal examined more than 200 previous studies and found that moderate coffee drinkers had less cardiovascular disease and premature death from all causes, including heart attacks and stroke, than those who didn’t drink coffee.

The latest scientific view, as published in the World Cancer Report 2020 confirms that coffee is full of antioxidants that reduce the risk of certain cancers – such as liver and endometrial cancer. The report, published by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), part of the World Health Organisation, is a collaboration between the world’s most prominent scientists, and is considered the authoritative source on cancer related disease.

The National Institutes of Health (NIH) – part of the US Department of Health and Human Services – has conducted a study of 400,000 people that confirmed that moderate coffee drinking lowers the risk of death overall. The study found that relative to men and women who did not drink coffee, those who consumed three or more cups of coffee per day had approximately a 10 percent lower risk of death. The leader of the research team wrote,

‘We found coffee consumption to be associated with lower risk of death overall, and of death from a number of different causes. Although we cannot infer a causal relationship between coffee drinking and lower risk of death, we believe these results do provide some reassurance that coffee drinking does not adversely affect health.’

© Commodity Conversations ®

This a short extract from my upcoming book Coffee Conversations – Crop to Cup to be published later this year.

Commodity Conversations Weekly Press Summary

The UN’s World Food Program (WFP) was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize this week for its work on “bettering conditions for peace”. The award comes as the agency recently warned that the coronavirus pandemic will double the number of acutely food-insecure people and the Nobel Committee highlighted that food and violent conflict often interact as part of a vicious circle. Researchers, however, argued that the link between food assistance programs and peace is not so straightforward, as food aid can in some cases exacerbate armed conflicts. The WFP’s work will need to go hand in hand with conventional peace-building efforts, experts argued. 

Food assistance programs have been evolving to better reflect the economic reality of agricultural development. The WFP and others are increasingly donating cash instead of food in order to encourage the local production of food crops. Besides, some argue that ending systematic hunger is a worthy goal in itself. In response to the prize announcement, Cargill said it would match the USD 1 million donation offered to the WFP by the Nobel Committee. 

In Brazil, the less-talked-about Pantanal region is suffering from fires that have destroyed 22% of the whole area since January, a NASA scientist estimated. The destruction and uncontrollable fires were caused by a complex combination of drought, more ranchers clearing land, bureaucratic inaction and climate change. Even the fires in the Amazon are affecting the region by limiting the amount of water available. 

As the deforestation rate in Brazil keeps accelerating, experts doubt whether or how food corporations will be able to completely monitor their supply chain. One investigative piece looking at COFCO’s soy supply chain in the Cerrado highlighted a lack of transparency. Moreover, COFCO only pledged to monitor its direct soy supply chain entirely by 2023, without mentioning indirect suppliers. In response, COFCO said it was also looking to monitor indirect suppliers, just as observers noted that the Chinese group recently received a USD 2.3 billion loan linked to its sustainability performance. 

France announced new restrictions on the use of glyphosate as it prepares for a full phase-out by 2021. A few days later, the European Court of Justice ruled that EU nations were indeed allowed to ban pesticides or regulate their use even if they are allowed at the EU level. Activists hope this will encourage more member states to impose their own bans. 

Going further, civil groups are looking to ban the production and exports of pesticides in the EU. Some 41 pesticides banned in the EU were exported by the bloc in 2018 to countries with weaker environmental laws. Lawmakers argued that exporting dangerous pesticides was not only hypocritical but could also lead to pesticides being imported back into the EU via food imports. 

After glyphosate, Bayer and BASF are now fighting to maintain the authorisation to use dicamba in the US. The herbicide was found to drift to neighbouring farmlands and Bayer has already paid USD 400 million to settle legal claims. The two German groups are now saying that dicamba can be mixed with other products to stop it from spreading. 

The IEA commented that the global demand for oil will not peak but plateau by 2040, in part because some of the changes caused by the coronavirus pandemic could actually encourage oil consumption. Regardless, some food activists have now turned to another concept: peak meat consumption, as they note that growing environmental concerns could lead to an overall long-term decline in meat demand. Some were quick to point out key differences between oil and meat, however, like the fact that sustainably produced meat can actually help the environment by sequestering carbon or improving soil health. 

In the same vein, the World Sustainability Organization launched a certification program to ensure that plant-based seafood is sustainably produced. The segment has huge growth potential especially in Asia, the organisation noted, as it highlighted the importance of building trust with consumers surrounding the environmental benefits of plant-based alternatives. 

Beyond the environmental credentials of plant-based alternatives, the sector is facing a bigger challenge when addressing potential nutritional advantages, as many products are being criticised for being highly processed and high in additives. Nevertheless, experts explained that consumers these days are more focused on taste and protecting the Earth. In the long-term, some say plant-based meat should merely act as a tool to help people cross-over to a conventional plant-based diet which can have significant nutritional advantages. 

In the meantime, food and drink producers are looking for creative ways to deal with the immediate consequences of climate change. The wildfires in California, for example, are giving grapes an unwanted smoky flavour, making it unsuitable to make wine. In response, one winery is using the grapes to make brandy which should benefit from the smoky aromas. Whether the idea works will only be known by the end of 2021 as the brandy is still undergoing its ageing process. 

This summary was produced by ECRUU

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A Conversation with David Griswold, Founder & CEO of Sustainable Harvest

Good morning, David. First question: what coffee are you drinking?

I’m drinking an estate coffee  called “Finca El Valle” from Antigua, Guatemala.  Finca El Valle was the first direct trade estate partner I worked with, going back more than 25 years now, and it is a coffee I still buy for the same roaster. It was from a small specialty farm nestled at the foot of three volcanoes, owned by a determined woman, Christina Gonzales.  She was supported by her husband and three sons.  It has been a favorite of mine, in part because through this sourcing relationship I’ve come to create the elements of transparency and trust that are core to the Relationship Coffee model.  It is a delicious coffee, with intense sweetness, with notes of brown sugar, nougat, and molasses.

Why are there so many women coffee growers?

We started our first women’s coffee program in 2003 in Nicaragua. While far from perfect, some of the economic reforms following the Sandinista Revolution provided women with the ability to seek joint ownership rights to the land they worked with their husbands.  Many women have since been able to grow their coffee separately from their spouses. One group of about 140 women growers came together to form a cooperative, and we found that their coffees scored consistently higher in cup quality.

In fact, women-owned collectives score higher across the board than mixed-coffee collectives, and this data point is true in most origins. When you ask the women, they’ll tell you that they take better care of growing, picking and processing their coffee than the men.

In addition to quality, our buyers prefer purchasing coffee grown by women because of their higher impact. The purchase premiums go directly to the women’s groups, and World Bank studies have shown that, on average, 90 percent of their increased income is invested into the household. If you want to impact families and lives, supporting entrepreneurial women coffee growers is a really good way to do it.

You were somewhat of a pioneer in sustainability when you started Sustainable Harvest in 1996.

That’s true. It was an unusual approach to business at the time. When I would share my sustainable business concept three decades ago, I would typically have to first define the concept of sustainability. People were sceptical, as though I were trying to cover up a badly produced coffee with a lovely story.

But then buyers would call me a week after I had left them samples and say, “Wow, that coffee tastes incredible! Please tell me the story behind it!”

How would you define your Relationship Coffee business model?

Relationship Coffee is a business model that is about stakeholders working collaboratively toward a common good that benefits all of the many actors that make up the supply chain. The core values in Relationship Coffee are empathy, communication, transparency, and trust. It considers the needs of all the stakeholders, not just maximizing the profits of one party. It puts people ahead of profits and takes into account both sides of the coffee equation.

Isnt this just stakeholder, rather than shareholder, capitalism?

We are a big proponent of stakeholder capitalism. We were the first coffee company certified as a B Corporation. We are not just concerned with shareholder value, but also the needs of other stakeholders. This includes our suppliers, our employees, the community, and the environment.

The Stanford Graduate School has conducted case studies analysing our Relationship Coffee model. They noted that where a traditional model only focuses on a buyer-seller approach, the collaborative model of Relationship Coffee brings more actors to the table. Because more actors have a vested interest in how the community will be impacted by a business decision this often means that they can bring other resources. We must find new and innovative ways to bring a wider group of diversified stakeholders to the table.

Are coffee farmers better off now than when you started 30 years ago?

I want to say we’ve made progress, but we’re nowhere near declaring mission accomplished. Recent data shows the current generation of coffee farmers makes less than half of what their parents made. For millions of producers, the coffee industry is still broken.

If farmers are worse off, doesnt it mean that only the coffee quality has increased, and that all your efforts have benefited the consumer and not the producer?

You are right; the producers have not received their fair share of the benefits that the specialty coffee market has generated. That has stayed up in the North, and the most recent data tells us that producer nations’ slice of the pie is a mere 10 percent of the total coffee market value. That is not sustainable for a global market. The coffee market is not serving all its members, and we’re putting our supply chain at risk if we don’t take serious action as individual companies to reverse this trend.

So, I’d ask the question a different way. Are your coffee farmers better off than they were 29 years ago – the ones that have relationships with?

I would hope that they are better off because of the investments we’ve made. We are now sourcing from almost 20 countries, we’re training leaders from over 100 cooperatives, and we are impacting over 200,000 smallholder coffee farmers and their families.

Thank you, David, for your time and input!

© Commodity Conversations ® 2020

This is an extract from my upcoming book Crop to Cup – Conversations over Coffee due to be published later this year.

Commodity Conversations Weekly Press Summary

European and UK negotiators have reportedly made some progress on reaching a free trade agreement although EU officials note that some open issues still need to be addressed, such as fisheries and state aid. The UK has set a deadline of October 15 to reach an agreement and the Prime Minister said he was open to a deal in line with what Australia has with the EU. However, commentators pointed out that there was no trade deal between Australia and the EU, while Australia has been looking to sign a full trade agreement with the block for years.

The UK did report a trade win this week as the country exported its first shipment of beef to the US in 20 years. The US banned imports in 1996 following issues with the mad cow disease but ruled that safety standards were acceptable again in March this year. The UK government estimates that this could generate USD 85 million annually over the next five years. This remains only a small victory, however, as the UK could lose USD 174 billion every year for 10 years with the combined impact of a no-deal Brexit and the coronavirus pandemic, according to Baker McKenzie. 

Food imports into Iran might become even more difficult if the US moves ahead with a plan to extend its sanctions and cut the country off from the global financial system. Essential goods should be exempt from the sanctions, in theory, but banks are reluctant to facilitate deals because of the fear of facing penalties. Besides, EU and Swiss efforts to set up alternative payment channels have only had limited success. Iran has been focusing on trade with the UAE and China in the meantime. 

As countries look to negotiate new trade agreements, industry members are busy trying to reduce the environmental impact of transporting commodities by ship. Sea Cargo Charter was launched by a coalition of 17 companies, including ADM, Bunge, Cargill, COFCO and Louis Dreyfus. The group set up a standard to transparently report shipping emissions to help meet greenhouse gas targets. In the same vein, Cargill will let its customers access CocoaWise, a portal set up to centralise the sustainability data of the cocoa supply chain. The solution includes a map with details on 128 cooperative offices in Cote d’Ivoire, 7 buying stations in Ghana and 11 stations in Cameroon.

Campaigners submitted a petition with 300,000 signatures urging Nestle to reconsider its decision to stop using Fairtrade cocoa and sugar in its Kit Kat bars. In response, Nestle highlighted that they are now sourcing Rainforest Alliance certified cocoa instead. They also argued that, along with its own Nestle Cocoa Plan, they are now in a better position to help improve the livelihoods of farmers. 

In the plant-based food world, oat milk just overtook soy milk to become the second most popular non-dairy milk. Oat milk has been gaining in popularity because of the low amount of water it needs to grow and the high protein and fiber content but almond milk remains the most popular in part thanks to its health advantages: it is low in calories, fat and carbohydrates.

Shoppers might be seeing a lot more plant-based products on sale following pledges by Tesco and Asda to boost sales. Tesco partnered with the WWF to increase sales of plant-based meat by 300% by 2025, while Asda is launching 104 new plant-based products. The move was not welcomed by the head of the National Sheep Association, however. He highlighted that it was based on an incorrect assumption, as meat can, and often is, produced in a sustainable way, while plant-based products are often mass-produced, highly industrialised and highly packaged.

Other experts are also questioning whether overselling the potential benefits of agricultural practices can actually undermine the fight against climate change. Environmentalists have recently been eagerly promoting the idea of regenerative agriculture to sequester the carbon in the atmosphere into the soil. But some proponents argue that the practice could actually absorb all of the carbon we currently emit. Such a claim is not only baseless, some experts say, but can also overpromise and simplify a complex problem that will require a whole suite of changes to solve. 

Talking of smart technological solutions to fight climate change, farmers found two clever ways to use agricultural products in surprising places this week. The first is in the Netherlands where researchers made bitumen – usually produced from fossil fuels – using lignin. And in the UK, the largest dairy cooperative, Arla, started converting some cow manure into methane and biofuels to power its trucks. 

This summary was produced by ECRUU

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A conversation with Jorge Cárdenas Gutiérrez

Jorge Cárdenas Gutiérrez has been the leading figure in the Colombian coffee industry for over half a century. Born in 1930 in Medellín, he studied Law and Political Science in his hometown, then he completed a master’s degree in Administration at the University of Syracuse. He has held various public positions in his country, but his lifelong passion has been the promotion of the Colombian coffee sector, both domestically and internationally.

For many years he was head of the Colombian Federation of Coffee Growers where he fought to improve coffee cultivation in Colombia, to improve the quality of life for the country’s coffee growers and the quality of coffee for consumers.

Good morning, Jorge. How important is coffee to Colombia?

Coffee has been a leading product in the Colombian economy for 120 years. For many years it was 10 percent of the gross domestic product, 30 percent of the agricultural product and 40 percent of the external income.

Revenues from coffee exports have enabled Colombia to develop its industry, railways, ports and a good part of the national infrastructure.

Today coffee’s economic importance to Colombia is lower, but it is still the country’s most important source of rural employment: 500,000 families on one million hectares produce a coffee harvest worth US $ 2.5 billion, which is 3 percent of Colombia’s GDP. Its social impact is fundamental.

What role has the National Federation played in maintaining the competitiveness of the sector?

The government of Colombia has worked since 1927 in full agreement with the National Federation of Coffee Growers in the development of public policies that build progress in the coffee growing areas with road services, potable water, electricity, health and education.

The Federation administers the National Coffee Fund, which has existed since 1940. The Fund is for the development of these public policies and for the promotion of coffee cultivation, its modernization and the international promotion of its consumption. The National Coffee Fund is a very important instrument of all coffee policy.

The Federation has 350,000 affiliated producers; since 1930, all producers pay a parafiscal contribution by Law of the Republic of Colombia.

To what extent has coffee had to compete with cocaine in Colombia?

The Federation has carried out extensive campaigns to combat illegal crops, and there are really no significant coca crops in the coffee growing areas. The farms are small in the coffee zone. Coca crops are in areas of little agriculture and very far from population centers.

What are the main problems that the coffee sector faces in Colombia?

The main problem of coffee cultivation in Colombia is the size of the farms: most plots are of 1 to 3 hectares. The production costs in these small farms is high compared to that obtained in larger areas.

What is the Federation doing to improve things?

The Federation of Coffee Growers has a Coffee Research Center (Cenicafé) that carries out permanent research on innovation. It has helped introduce coffee varietals that are resistant to pests and are higher yielding. This has helped Colombia to maintain a production of between 12 and 14 million bags of 60 kg for the past several years.

What lies behind the success of Colombian coffee?

The competitiveness of Colombian coffee is due to its quality that is in turn a result of the care with which it is grown and processed.

With the image of Juan Valdez, the Federation of Coffee Growers created a special niche in the world market since 1960. He gave a name to a generic product, that’s the reality.

How does the Colombia maintain a sustainable living for its coffee growers?

From 1940 to 2000, Colombia had an internal price for coffee that did not change more than three times a year. A sustainable and stable price was financed with export earnings and contributions from the producers themselves to the National Coffee Fund. In addition, the various international coffee agreements provided price stability to international prices.

Since 2000, the domestic price reflects the international price of coffee. Only in times of very low international prices the Government and the Federation have given growers a special premium as part of the internal price of coffee.

The Colombian government has recently introduced a new Stabilization Fund which seeks price stability as in previous years; for the time being it does not yet have the necessary resources.

Are you optimistic for coffee in Colombia?

The National Federation of Coffee Growers continues in its task of innovating in the cultivation and harvesting and the producers accompany these efforts. The Federation celebrates 93 years of its founding and continues to be a leading rural service organization. It has the support of the Government and the backing of producers.

Roasters the world over continue to view Colombia as a highly reliable supplier. Today’s consumers are increasingly moving towards high quality coffees, which is very favorable for Colombia. The future of Colombian coffee is bright.

Thank you, Jorge for your time and comments!

© Commodity Conversations ®

This is an extract of an interview from my new book Crop to Cup, to be published later this year.

Commodity Conversations Weekly Press Summary

Germany has gone all out to contain the African Swine Fever (ASF) which was detected this month in a few wild boars but already cost the country a ban on exports to China. Even though no commercial pigs have tested positive, one expert estimated that Germany lost a USD 1 billion market in just one day from import bans. He calculated that the world’s pig population dropped by at least 25% because of ASF, whereas China lost about a third of its pig population since 2018. The US and Spain could fill in the gap but an analyst warned that the situation was very volatile. A second Covid-19 wave could have a drastic impact on both pork consumption and supply. 

China is also asking importers to be careful about sourcing frozen food and seafood from countries with big Covid-19 outbreaks. The government said it had found the virus in imported cold-chain food. The WHO still maintains that one was unlikely to catch the virus through food. 

The growing demand for salmon has led to its wild population dropping by half in the last 50 years. Beyond overfishing, sea lice, which spreads from fish farms to the wild, also contributed to the fall in population. US startup Wildtype is working to solve the issue with their lab-grown salmon. For the moment, it cost them USD 200 to make a spicy salmon roll but they hope to commercialise their salmon within the next 5 years. 

US-based plant-based protein company Puris is hoping to solve the issue of the high sodium content in alternative burgers with its new low-sodium pea protein. The CEO explained that plant-based burgers have much more salt than meat burgers, with one Beyond Burgers containing 16% of our daily allowance. The group, which will be doubling its pea protein production by next year, is also launching lupin flour and pea syrup, to be used in keto products and as a substitute for corn syrups. Similarly, ADM launched a series of plant-based proteins designed to improve the “sensory appeal” of plant-based meat, including textured pea proteins and textured wheat protein. 

The British Retail Consortium calculated that new import tariffs as a result of a no-deal Brexit could cost households an additional GBP 112 in food expenses, and probably more once the administrative costs are also taken into account. It explained that the UK’s food supply chain works on very little margin, which means most of the additional costs would be passed on to consumers. Besides, the recently launched Future British Standards Coalition is lobbying against any lowering of food standards after Brexit. A specific point of contention is the import of chlorinated chicken from the US – something opposed by many in the UK. 

Some 200 global food suppliers joined a voluntary coalition committing to reduce their food waste by half by 2030. An insight by Food Dive, however, points out that 80% of the world’s food waste happens in supermarkets, restaurants and with the end consumer. Nevertheless, it expects the commitment to eventually happen as it will help boost these companies’ bottom line. One solution is being tested in Kenya, where a farm is feeding food waste to black soldier fly larvae which will then be used for animal feed. 

If fighting waste was not enough, Walmart declared its commitment to becoming a “regenerative company.” The CEO Explained that “Regenerating means restoring, renewing, and replenishing, in addition to conserving.” Concretely, the target is to reach zero net emissions by 2040, restore 50 million acres of land and 1 million sq m of ocean by 2030. 

Funding and incentivising sustainable farming is a growing issue, one that a new fund hopes to solve in Brazil. Saff, the product of a public-private partnership, will start with USD 68 million in 2021, aims to reach USD 1.4 billion by 2026 and will target farmers who follow the crop-livestock-forest integration on at least 5% of their area. In the UK, McDonald’s tied up with McCain to set up a GBP 1 million fund, called the Sustainable MacFries Fund, to help potato growers become more sustainable.

We live in an era where we are used to questioning the things we’ve been doing but here’s one you probably didn’t see coming: you shouldn’t use boiling water to make tea. An expert explained that the habit of boiling developed when water was unsafe to drink. Instead, he suggests using water at 50-65 degrees for green tea and 80 degrees for most breakfast teas. Otherwise, he warned, your tea will taste “no better than cabbage water.”

This summary was produced by ECRUU

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